How to Calculate a Time Lapse:
Time lapses have been among the most visually stimulating elements of cinema since their introduction in the late 1800′s. To this day they are as popular as ever and as easy as ever to create, that is if you have all the right tools. One of the most commonly asked questions is “How many seconds between each shot?”, or “At what interval do I take photos?”. Usually you will get an answer from a friend or on a forum between 1 and 6 seconds. But how and why did they choose that interval other than past experience and/or guesswork? Below I will show you how to calculate that interval as well as all other aspects of your time lapse so you can be knowledgeable and prepared before even getting on location. Before I get much further here’s is a real word example of a video I made applying the equation outlined in this article.
There are a small number of other Time Lapse Calculators out there, but those just spit out the answer for you with the information you provide them. I will provide an actual equation which I have formulated so that you may solve for any variable based on each of your shots’ particular needs. Furthermore, this equation will not only enable you to proficiently time your shots so that you may perfectly elapse 8 hours into 30 seconds, but will give you the complete ability to transform any amount of hours into any amount of seconds by finding each shots specific interval (rounded to the nearest second).
As long as you’ve got a calculator this is very easy to tackle. Here’s what it means..
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-INTERMEDIATE:
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Welcome to Part Two of Four, in AmericanDSLR’s quest to uncover The True Cost of Owning a DSLR! This section will cover an estimated true cost for the Intermediate level Filmmaker. We will start off with a list of ongoing equipment that will remain the constant at any level, then I will show pictures, prices, and outline the new products you will be needing as you work your way towards becoming a true pro!
Items carried on from the Beginner level:
- Camera Body
- 18-135mm Lens
- 16 GB CF Card
- 2 Year Accidental Damage Warranty
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5.
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Zoom H4N: $299.99
The Zoom H4n is a must for DSLR filmmaking. This has amazing built in stereo mic recording, as well as 2 XLR inputs on the bottom of the device for up to 4 CH Audio recordings with your Boom, Shotgun, or Wireless Mics. While some don’t recommend using it for recording dialogue, I find it to work fine within 2 or 3 feet from the subject. There are better recorders out there but the Zoom H4n is the best value by far.
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We all know how much a DSLRs costs, from print ads or browsing around online. But once you add that carrying case, an extra battery, maybe even a mic; you may start to question whether your DSLR is going to ‘take’ more money, or ‘make’ more money. Well let’s get to the bottom of this by determining your level of intent, and uncover the True Cost of Owning a DSLR.
-BEGINNER:
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1.
Camera Body: $1,699.00
For the purposes of this article I will be assuming we are buying the 7D and using Canon Lenses. First things first, you need your Camera Body. Once you make your decision on brand and model this will obviously be your first step.
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Here is the first video I shot with the 7D just a few hours after I bought it. Straight out of the box using the 18-135mm Kit Lens with Dial set to Program.
First Impressions:
The first thing I noticed while shooting the plants, was that here on this unbelievable small piece of equipment, I was matching and even surpassing the Depth of Field only previously achieved on my Canon XH-A1s with Letus adapter. The difference in means to attain that type of video, and the lack of difference in the result, was absolutely amazing to me. Through all of the negatives the 7D can bring, I was and still am highly impressed with the camera as a whole
After drooling over the DOF, I was soon introduced to two of the *Canon’s greatest weak points. ROLLING SHUTTER and VARIABLE APERTURE.
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In this Article I will be talking about the differences between shooting video on a Traditional Video Camera ( 3CCD/ CMOS/ etc.) and shooting video on a DSLR ( Canon 7d, CMOS), as well as what you need to know to make the transition and if it’s right for you. Also after briefly describing each of the main differences I will give either Traditional Video or DSLR Video my vote for which performs best in that field.
The Look:
The first thing people will notice when they see you using your DSLR is that it looks quite different than the video cameras we are used to, from an XL1 to a RED they pretty much look the same. But now we have a drastically different looking piece of equipment that ( depending in your setup) can even look comical at times. Anyone who has done any research in these Video Capable DSLRs ( I will mainly be referring to the Canon 7D) knows that they are not to be underestimated, but when you show up to a shoot for a client and pull out your stock 7D, you may get a raised eyebrow or two. There are ways to overcome this, with an every growing list of companies designing products exclusively for the DSLR video industry, you can transform your camera from a bland looking stock cam, to a shiny eye catching contraption equipped with everything your used to seeing on the set with those ancient things we called Video Cameras.
(Conclusion: TIE)
Ergonomics:
Now obviously there are going to be some usability issues when moving from Video to DSLR Video. Now whether your using a D90, 5Dmkll, or 7D, these cameras are designed for taking pictures, NOT for holding above your head for three hours trying to get the best angle of the festivities at your cousins Bar Mitzvah. So herein lies the issue, we have this piece of equipment designed for one thing, and we want to use it for something else. Well this is something you will learn to accept because 1080 24p Video is really just a happy Bi-Product of these next generation DSLRs, and they are still after all, essentially a picture taking camera. There are ways to compensate for a certain level of discomfort though, changing the way you shoot ( putting it up on a rig or shoulder mount), or buying a cheap strap that screws into the bottom of the camera ( doesn’t help much). I will post more and list specific solutions in my ” Pimp my DSLR” article coming soon.
(Conclusion: TRADITIONAL VIDEO WINS)
Media:
Say goodbye to those dusty twisted stacks of unlabeled Mini DV tapes behind your computer, and welcome to the wonderful world of File Based Media! Unless you are a former HVX user, or have some crappy AVCHD camera, you are in for a surprise. And it’s a great one. Shooting video ( or pictures) on a DSLR is all captured to your new best friend, the CF Card. Your CF Card ( Compact Flash) is a small 3.3 mm thick, square memory stick with various capacities and writing speeds out there to match any of your shooting needs. Shooting full 1080 for 3 minutes on your Canon 7D will take up about one gb of space. The most common CF Cards are 2, 4, or 8GB. For video purposes you should be purchasing 8GB cards and up. An 8GB card will give you 24 minutes of HD footage. CF Cards currently go up to 64GB and the 7D accepts up to 32Gb. Also the transfer process is simple and similar to what you do every day when transferring data between drives. You can also say goodbye to Log and Capture, but best of all.. NO MORE DROPPED FRAMES! 
(Conclusion: DSLR WINS)
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